The following is a list of excerpts of all the articles on this site that are associated with the topic Rock climbing.
You can view the full article by clicking on the article title or its associated thumbnail image.
In the early sixties, too late to get into the West guidebook, Barry Webb ventured on to Stoney accompanied by a SUMC member, Charlie Curtis. What came from this were the three very fine routes of Mortuary Steps, Brown Corner and Compositae Groove.The West guide though imprinted 1961 did not, as I recall, get on… Learn more
Bibliography and Acknowledgements
Definitive Guidebooks (Number of climbs indicated) No. of routes (63) 1961 – Rock Climbs on the Mountain Limestone of Debyshire by Graham West (MGCC) (126) 1966 – Stoney Middleton by Geoff Birtles (Private Publication) (144) 1969 – The Northern Limestone Area by C Jackson, B Moore, J Street and G Birtles (CC) (224) 1980 –… Learn more
Cioch Climbing Club
Personal recollections of the Cioch Club and rock-climbing at Stoney Middleton in the 1960s by Geoff Birtles Main picture – Outside Lovers Leap Cafe c1964. Behind l tor. Unknown Dave Nowill, Jack Street John Atkinson, Jim Ballard, Brian Starkey holding Brian Moore’s son Alexander. Sitting. Sheila Stokes, Bryan Stokes and Geoff Birtles. (Chris Jackson) View… Learn more
The following content has been written by Geoff Birtles, himself a renowned climber . He has a wealth of experience and knowledge of climbing in and around Stoney Middleton Dale and has also published many articles and books on climbing. The content covers the full history of rock climbing in Stoney Middleton Dale from the early 19th century to the present day. Drawing on… Learn more
Early 19th Century
A lot of Rock climbing was done in the last few centuries in the Stoney Middleton area as anybody who has ventured down the caves and mines thereabouts will testify. However, the first recorded above ground activity of rock climbing for recreational purposes hereabouts was by Henry Bishop recorded in an article entitled ‘Climbs on… Learn more
Graham West (main picture) leading on Bastion Wall High Tor. West records an amusing tale to this route which demonstrates claims and counter-claims are nothing new. It reads: Bastion Wall was also climbed during 1957, this again being the subject of an unfortunate controversy, which happened as follows. J. Hadfield, R. Hughes and myself climbed… Learn more
There are not many climbing places in the UK quite like Stoney Middleton; a combination of magnificent cliffs, easy access, balmy micro climate, a cafe and three pubs, all within easy access of major cities like Manchester and Nottingham and, in particular, Sheffield from where the number 84 Buxton bus dropped you outside The Grouse… Learn more
Joe Brown and the Valkyrie/Rock & Ice
From 1933 there is no known of climbing here until Joe Brown and others from the Nottingham based Valkyrie Club took an interest. Joe recalls starting to climb there from about 1950 and such was the way then that they climbed in any weather, so much so that he recalls a snow blizzard so severe… Learn more
The late Len Millsom was known affectionately as Legger and was Sheffield’s answer to Joe Brown, of similar build with an exceptional technique often in bendy boots. He was notably a gritstone climber and only left one new route at Stoney but it was one of the best of its time. In a letter to… Learn more
Stoney Middleton’s crags are without doubt home to some of the hardest climbs in the world, the epicentre for British climbers in the 50s 60s and 70s. Principally developed by Jack Street, Geoff Birtles and Tom Proctor who in 1968 established one of the hardest climbs in the world known as Our Father on Windy Buttress. The roadside crags of Middleton… Learn more