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• Sharples

  

  STONEY MIDDLETON A retrospective of this time hardened Peak District crag by Keith Sharples. Ever since its halcyon days of the 60s, Stoney Middleton Dale has been up there in the higher echelons of White Peak crags. Without a few Stoney classic test pieces under your belt, your CV can only be considered lacking. Nor… Learn more

• Rock Climbing at Stoney Middleton in the 1970s

  

  ROCK-CLIMBING AT STONEY MIDDLETON IN THE 1970s Personal recollections of the 1970s by Geoff Birtles   All histories are versions of events and this one is no different. Following are some personal recollections of climbing at Stoney Middleton in the 1970s and a tribute to Tom Proctor (pictured below). Thanks go to others for their… Learn more

• Mick Ward

  Tales of Windy Ledge By Mick Ward This text of this article first appeared on the UKclimbing website in 2010.   Above: Ben Campbell-Kelly, a visitor from the South-West. (Brian Cropper)   In 1968 the late Tom Proctor went up to Windy Ledge and attacked the vicious, outrageously undercut flake right of Scoop Wall. Geoff… Learn more

• Cioch Climbing Club

  

  Personal recollections of the Cioch Club and rock-climbing at Stoney Middleton in the 1960s by Geoff Birtles Main picture – Outside Lovers Leap Cafe c1964. Behind l tor. Unknown Dave Nowill, Jack Street John Atkinson, Jim Ballard, Brian Starkey holding Brian Moore’s son Alexander. Sitting. Sheila Stokes, Bryan Stokes and Geoff Birtles. (Chris Jackson) View… Learn more

• Graham West

  

  Graham West (main picture) leading on Bastion Wall High Tor. West records an amusing tale to this route which demonstrates claims and counter-claims are nothing new. It reads: Bastion Wall was also climbed during 1957, this again being the subject of an unfortunate controversy, which happened as follows. J. Hadfield, R. Hughes and myself climbed… Learn more

• Medusa

  

  The late Len Millsom was known affectionately as Legger and was Sheffield’s answer to Joe Brown, of similar build with an exceptional technique often in bendy boots. He was notably a gritstone climber and only left one new route at Stoney but it was one of the best of its time. In a letter to… Learn more

• Sheffield University Mountaineering Club – SUMC

  

  By 1957, a whole new generation arrived in the dale from the nearby Sheffield University. This group was largely spearheaded by Dave Johnson accompanied by such as Trevor Brooks, Jack Wade, John Childs and their mentors, Ron and Brenda Salt, overcame the horror stories about limestone and tackled the unclimbed rock as described in the SUMC… Learn more

• Joe Brown and the Valkyrie/Rock & Ice

  

  From 1933 there is no known of climbing here until Joe Brown and others from the Nottingham based Valkyrie Club took an interest. Joe recalls starting to climb there from about 1950 and such was the way then that they climbed in any weather, so much so that he recalls a snow blizzard so severe… Learn more

• Barry Webb

  

  In the early sixties, too late to get into the West guidebook, Barry Webb ventured on to Stoney accompanied by a SUMC member, Charlie Curtis. What came from this were the three very fine routes of Mortuary Steps, Brown Corner and Compositae Groove.The West guide though imprinted 1961 did not, as I recall, get on… Learn more

• The 1930s

  

  Very little was written about limestone after 1918 apart from Puttrell’s newspaper articles until the Graham West 1961 guidebook ‘Rock Climbs on the Mountain Limestone of Derbyshire’ was published. However, Eric Byne and Clifford Moyer climbed some routes of which there are no specific records though Byne, a joint author of High Peak who wrote the… Learn more

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